ADS Motorcycles in New York is on a mission to help you build the bike of your dreams. A Ryca kit purchased from ADS comes with the promise of the owner, Dave Seidman, to be there day or night to help even an absolute beginner complete their project. “I know what I went through when I built my first bike,” says Dave. “It’s intimidating as hell. But these kits are so well thought out that anyone can do it. Most of the time I’m just there to give my guys confidence and show them a few tricks to make it easier.”
Dave also offers custom parts to his Ryca builders, such as handlebar mounted compression-release levers, routered-out top clamps, rear-brake switch mounts, velocity stacks, inspection sticker holders, and more.
As for the bike in these photos, Dave said “I needed a demonstrator and could have made it a stock Ryca, but I wanted to show what could be done with just a little imagination...and to get potential builders excited. That’s what’s great about these kits, they give you a solid foundation so you can go off and really make one your own.”
Oak Beach, New York
My son Alex (the “A” in ADS) loves Pokemon, which is Japanese for pocket monster, hence the name -- which fits this little beast of a bike perfectly. Here’s what we did to make it that way...
Dyno: 31 hp, 36 ft/lbs with 90 degree elbow and flat K&N filter. With an open velocity stack it got 35 hp and 37 ft/lbs.
Air filter: Took Ryca’s idea from the scrambler and used the 90- degree elbow, but fitted the CS-1’s flat filter.
Fuse case: Painted red and mounted it under the battery box on the left side so it’s easy to get to.
Belt guard: Ryca’s does the job but lacks elegance. I cut down the stock S-40 guard, cut open a panel on top, and put in a screen.
Battery box: Added a mud flap so crap from the rear wheel wouldn’t get past the slits in the back of the box. Also, wired in a license-plate light.
Cylinder head covers: Cut open panels and put in screens to add some detail to an otherwise boring part of the engine.
Front pulley case: Cut down to improve the lines.
Front fender mounts: Ground down the right one, used the left one for a brake hose bracket. Both sliders polished.
Headlight: Welded two cross-bars onto rim. Borrowed yellow paint from a stained-glass window maker to tint the lens. Green LED in bezel for “neutral” on top of bucket (the only indicator light on the bike).
Rear set mounting bracket: Cut out notches on both side plates so I could get a socket in to torque the engine’s rear mounting bolts.
Horn: Ugly in stock side position, so I moved it to the lower part of steering tube.
Fork brace: Machined out slots to take the stock black-plastic bug protectors which are now held in place with threaded set screws.
Wire guides: Used the threaded holes that held the S-40‘s battery box to install neat wire guides for the ground (left side) and starter (right side) cables.
Heat shield: On the exhaust pipe by the brake lever. Installed because my foot kept rubbing the pipe, scratching the powder coat and melting my boots.
Turn signals: To keep down clutter on the forks where they’d normally be, I mounted the stalks so they come out of the underside of the tank. Hardly noticeable, but still does the job.
Battery: Now a tiny Ballistic lithium ion. Makes more room in the battery box to keep the rat’s nest of wires a lot neater.
Crankcase breather tube: Runs along side the clutch cable to a small air filter under the bike. Cable and tube held parallel with custom clamps. For the next bike I’ll hide it inside the frame tubes.
Tank mount: Since I kept the stock compression-release solenoid, I couldn’t use Ryca’s tank mounting system. I welded flat horizontal bracket arms to the frame. Bolts go through the brackets and up into bungs in the bottom of the tank.
Tank: Changed to a Pingel petcock. Closed off the speedo hole on top. Added a vent tube. Made a smaller fuel-fill hole.
Top fork clamp: Machined out material between reinforcing webbing to make it look lighter without sacrificing strength.
Tach/Speedo: To keep the front neat I ditched the mini tach and speedo. Instead, I mounted a German-made digital unit down by the starter on the right side. Beautifully made and expensive, but it does everything from odometer, tach, speedo, and more. Not convenient to see while riding, but I only care about the odometer so I don’t run out of fuel.
Inspection sticker holder: Since I wasn’t using the foot compression release, I used the hole in the frame to bolt in a well-hidden mount for those ugly inspection stickers.
Ignition key: Done away with; again, to keep the bike looking clean. In its place is a hidden switch.
Battery box wires: Covered on the right side by a 12 oz. flask (never drink and ride kids!) that uses Ryca’s detachable side-panel mounting bracket to hold it in place. I also welded in three horizontal rods on each side to cover the openings under the seat.
Rear brake light switch: Ryca’s set up to works, but I hated that big loop of cable. So I made a bracket and installed an aftermarket switch with a more direct connection.
Rear brake linkage: The Ryca system is clever. But mine is a more conventional system that makes adjustments easier.
Steering stops: Needed so the clip-ons could be set at a more comfortable angle (rather than almost straight out) and not hit the tank.
Side stand mount: Welded it to frame, just because I happened to be weld-happy that day. Ryca’s system works fine.
The bike was relatively simple to do because the kit gives you such a good base to work from. All it took was some extra time and head scratching. It’s an easy bike to make look good.
See more customer builds in the Customer Gallery.